Oaxaca

My tiredness completely lifted in Oaxaca, about 1000 metres lower than Mexico City so I think it was a touch of altitude sickness that I had suffered.

We were pleasantly surprised by Hotel Aitana booked via the Bamba Experience accommodation site, an 18th century colonial building, with a lovely inner courtyard. It was excellent value and a short walk to the zocolo (centre). Our room was warm except for only one thing – the shower is not hot only lukewarm. Brrrr!

I was enchanted by the beautiful colonial buildings and elaborate cathedrals as soon as we started walking around. On Sunday the square was crowded with families, tourists and the indigenous people of the surrounding pueblos. There was a political gathering to protest privatisation of water and education. A friendly Canadian told us there was always a protest in town. The indigenous women wore bright woollen cloaks/gowns over their clothes and the men wore cowboy hats as they listened with weathered and weary faces. The equally bright children were chasing bubbles and birds and playing. It was a lovely vibe.

The markets in and around the Benito Juarez market were full of fresh food, pretty hand made blouses and textiles. I finally found a small blouse (probably a large children’s one) after looking around. They are all big. I think they keep the small sizes for themselves! Overall I couldn’t tell if the locals were reserved or cold. They didn’t smile much when we asked questions. It appears as if they are more interested in our money than a cultural exchange. But who knows what they would really be like if you lived there. After all the Canadian we met had married into an Oaxacan family.

We finished off our first evening in Oaxaca with a cerveza listening to music and a good long sleep.

On our second day we set off for the Museo de las Culturales but it was closed on a Monday so we went to the Museo de Textil instead. Intricate baskets and beautiful textiles hung in an old building next to the main cathedral. We also saw an environmental themed photography exhibition of cute girls wearing traditional clothes with carefully placed vegetables in their hair. It sounds funny but they were gorgeous! Once again we enjoyed people watching at the zocolo which was less crowded now that it was Monday.

We visited our first archaeological site at Monte Alban, important for being the first city state of the Americas. I had seen an archaeological site from the air as we were descending also and wondered if that one was Mitla. They all seem to be perched high on top of a hill. Tourist information helped us get there easily. For just 70 pesos for two people the collectivo took us up and after a couple of hours brought us back. It was a good way to avoid the pricey tours they keep peddling at the hotels. Just look for the manned stall behind the restaurants and in front of the supermarket in the zocolo.